I am considering getting an AVL warping wheel. I have some sectional beams and some regular beams. I have tried several methods of warping the sectionals, and the only one that worked well was a spool rack and tension box. However, this involved winding a lot of spools and wasted quite a bit of warp. I like the idea of the wheel, but I'm not sure I would like the intermittant activity (wind on the wheel, wind on the loom, repeat). Right now, I use a very large reel. Is there anyone out there that has used both and can compare them? Has anyone tried any techniques for using it on a regular beam?
I had my doubts also. But a friend loaned me her AVL Warping Wheel which had a cross maker and that 3 month loan sealed the deal for me. I could make warp chains that I could wind on as I usually did. I could use them for trapeze beaming and I could use them for my AVL WDL for sectional warping. I put away my big warping reel and pretty much use my AVL wheel for all types warps. I did buy the Hocket mini reel for very small sample warps (I've wound 7 yards fine silk on them). No regrets. I did buy the cross maker, instructions are out there to make one. Your choice depending on in house talent.
Different folks have found tension issues on some warps with wheels or squares. The warp was not as firm as they want.
I have used both and really like my AVL warping wheel for putting on long warps. I do use the cross maker. The thing that makes it different from today’s warping mills is that the AVL wheel has a built in tensioning system. That way the warp doesn't get sloppy on you as you put it on.
The only feasible alternative that gives you good tension on a wide warp is warping with a trapeze. I find the AVL warping wheel to be a more convenient alternative.
I've used a hybrid method of winding on the warping board, then winding each bout on the sectional, and I've used the spool rack with the tensioner directly on to the sectional. I frankly didn't enjoy either one much. But I got it done. The AVL warping wheel sounds intruiging.
I've warped a bunch of different ways & the method that works best for me is with my AVL Warping Wheel. I bought a Leclerc top-loading tension box & run each section through the tension box as I wind on. This system produces very satisfying results.
am I the *only* one who can not read/see the first post?
It is obvious that Deb is answering/commenting, as she starts her post with "I had my doubts also. "
However, I can not see a word of the origina post.
In fact, there are many (new? newish?) threads here that (for me) lacks the OP.
If i am alone in this, may I ask for suggestions as to my "preferences" (or somethig) that I can change? It is kinda hopeless to guess the first poster's question.
(I have tried to tell this, and other problems, to the administrators, via posts and via direct e-mails. I do not get any kind of response. Any tips on that? I am not on FB, and do not want to join just to comment on a forum that is supposed to function, independently of FB)
Kerstin in Sweden, who actually managed to participate on this forum before the change
We are sorry that you are having these frustrations. We have asked you in various posts to contact us directly with more information and screen shots. We have not received any direct e-mails from you. Please make sure you are sending your e-mails to [email protected]. We are more than happy to help you out, but do not have enough information at this point.
I use one, I like it. The longest warp so far is 9 turns with all the spools on the outside. This makes 12 scarves. Usually, I do 6 turns for 8 scarves. For shawls, I sometimes put one or two of the spools on an inner spot and can have some trouble with the wheel sticking when starting up because of the flat angle- no leverage. Otherwise I have a long shawl at the end, but not quite long enough.
Another problem is what happens if you make a mistake counting turns. It is a royal pain in the neck whether it's too short or too long. Be very careful.
Last bit of wisdom, the spools tend to pull in as you wind more and more warp, like pegs on a warping board. ( I usually wind 48 ends in a two inch section, but go as high as 60 ends). So wind tighter on the first round, and when you cut the warp to tie the knot, divide it in half and cut the section on the right about a half an inch shorter.
When I had a studio in a large loft, I had the AVL horizontal warping reel and the warping drum. The drum was awesome. You would take the warp off whatever you used to measure it out, wind it on the drum, spread the warp in the raddle, and wheel the drum across the room from the back of the loom. Set the weight , go over to your loom and wind it right on with lots of tension, no combing.
This was the original post. If I am not logged in, I can see the replys but not the original post. I looked at one of these at Convergence, and am smitten. I didn't think that a really tight tension co uld be had, but that was not true. As it was set up, it was too tight. Thank you all for your input. I have decided that this willbe a usefull addition. to my studio.
Submitted by big white sofa dogon Sun, 06/24/2018 - 19:55
I am considering getting an AVL warping wheel. I have some sectional beams and some regular beams. I have tried several methods of warping the sectionals, and the only one that worked well was a spool rack and tension box. However, this involved winding a lot of spools and wasted quite a bit of warp. I like the idea of the wheel, but I'm not sure I would like the intermittant activity (wind on the wheel, wind on the loom, repeat). Right now, I use a very large reel. Is there anyone out there that has used both and can compare them? Has anyone tried any techniques for using the wheel with a conventional beam.?
Interesting: you see different thngs when logged on or not?
I am currently logged in, and still don't see your original.
Also: congratulations on your accomplishment to make your "picture" stick! I have tried several times, but after some days the blue cone is back.
kerstinfroberg, you are not alone. I cannot see the original here either. But somehow I ended up following this thread and I saw the original post in the email that was sent when someone posted here. And of course I can see the repost by BWSD.
kerstinfroberg, you are not alone. I cannot see the original here either. But somehow I ended up following this thread and I saw the original post in the email that was sent when someone posted here. And of course I can see the repost by BWSD.
I have a spool rack and sectional box, a Warping Square, and plain beams with heads. At one time like Muffy I had the drum and AVL horizontal heck block reel. You do need space for the drum. My mentor Lillian Whipple has the drum now. I wish I had never sold the reel. I use a different warping method depending on the yarn and content. I've also taught using a warping board, a moveable comb or section box, to put on relatively short warps on a sectional beam. Lately I've been using my Warping Square for 26 yard 10/2s cotton warps for 2" sections. I think that is the limit for warp length with this size of warp because the yarns overlap and sometimes stick rolling off the Square. I just use my hand behind the WS reed to keep the yarns even and I get perfect flat tight sections. If I needed to go to a higher epi I would wind to my 1" sectional, less threads. NO method is perfect. Much depends on you. Over time I have learned to enjoy the warping process. I can design gradients as I go with the WS. I also weave seersucker and will warp up two beams. For those warps I might have one set of threads a sectional beam and another on the plain beam with heads.
